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Monday, 23 May 2016

Maximize Your Hardtail

In Indonesia, hardtail MTB its a majority 1st bike for new cyclist who like to try commuting or bomb the MTB tracks. Its offer a cheap, fun and easy maintenance.  Here's a 5 tips to maximize your hardtail performance on the tracks:

Setup The Tires


Aim for 2.3in as a minimum width and aim for around 28psi front and 30psi rear — adjusting upwards by a couple of psi for heavier riders and down if you’re under 75kg. Tyre pressure is more critical on a hardtail than a full-suspension bike because damping is such a priority. Too hard and you’ll bounce all over the place, losing grip. Too soft and you’ll pinch puncture and the tyres will squirm when you corner hard. There is no hard and fast rule for tyre pressure, it will depend on where you ride, the tyres you run, how much you weigh and how aggressive you are. Experiment by gradually dropping the pressure.

Setup The Fork


As with tyres, it’s well worth finding the optimum air pressure to run in your fork. With no rear suspension, when the fork compresses on a hardtail, the whole frame pivots around the rear axle, radically steepening the geometry. This can feel dicey on steeper trails so add some lowspeed compression damping if you have it, experiment with different air pressures and try altering the oil height or the air volume with spacers. Reducing the air volume makes the spring rate more progressive, so you should find the fork supports the front end more when the trail steepens.

Clip On


Flat pedals are great, but not on a hardtail ,even the grippiest shoe/pedal combos are no help when you get an unexpected hit through the pedals and your foot takes off vertically! Clip in to improve your connection with the bike, it’ll give you total confidence that no matter what you’re rattling through, your feet will remain planted. (HINT: use a flat pedals if you bomb the track for the first time, after you familiar with it, go clipless)


Dropper seatpost


With no rear suspension, your legs have to absorb the bumps. Help them to get their full range of motion by dropping the saddle out of the way. Go for a dropper post with the most drop that you can get away with it.

Choose Your Cockpit

Stability and confidence are very welcome when riding without the compliance of suspension, so it’s even more important to pick a bar/stem combo that feels right to you. Short stems provide more direct steering as well as increasing stiffness. Wide bars make a huge difference as well, around 760mm is a good width to start.

(Ok, that statement above maybe right for technical trail. But with my experience in Jalur Jatiasih, UI Forest and Summarecon Bekasi XC Bike park, i prefer run my Giant ATX with mid stem (80mm) and narrow flatbar.)


Source: What Mountain Bike Magazine 6/2016 "Hardtail Rule"


Ride On!

2 comments:

Bayu Adhiwarsono said...

Handlebar 760 mm as a start, Om? Itu untuk track kan ya? Kalau buat di jalan, saya pake 700 mm udah maksimal kayaknya. Sering diklaksonin motor gegara mentok gak bisa nyempil lagi. Sementara sayanya sih cuek aja.....hahahahaha....

Decky Putra said...

Iya om Bayu...saya juga suka pakai narrow bar kalau untuk commuting. Saat ini trek XC di luar mulai banyak obstacle yang butuh handling OK..makanya wide bar sekarang jadi new standard disana