Tuesday, 31 May 2016

How It Work? Sram eTap

Sram eTaps in the form of full wireless integration, making it the first shifting system to jettison cables. Bolt on the components, set up the limits, push a button on each to pair them, and ride away. It’s the work of five minutes.

Not only does the lack of wires make setup easy and keep the bicycle looking sharp, it also means all of the ports, battery storage spaces, straps and clips that bicycle frame makers have had to accommodate are potentially redundant.

As none of the components are physically connected, each has its own power source. Each mech has its own removable battery pack. They should be good for around 1,000km or 60 hours, and if one dies you can always swap them around to get yourself home. It also means you can carry a spare on long trips.

Glowing LED lights on the shifters and derailleurs let you know how much juice is left in each and recharge time is around an hour. The shifters run on simple coin cells that are available in any supermarket, with an expected lifespan of around two years.

While the shape of the levers will be familiar to any SRAM user, it’s also possible to run a further pair of wired satellite shifters, called ‘Blips’. These can be placed on the tops of your handlebars, for example, to allow you to shift from there, on the drops for sprinting, or at the end of a pair of aero bars to allow you to change gear without breaking position.

Lets wait and see, can Sram eTap change cycling drivetrain more simple and (i hope) cheaper in the future?

Ride On!

Monday, 30 May 2016

Sponsored: Zubits Original VS The Fake One

As a promise..pada artikel sebelumnya mengenai Zubits, saya menyampaikan akan membahas perbedaan antara Zubits original dengan fake. Perbedaan antara produk original dengan fake sangat signifikan. Saya akan bahas satu persatu disini. Keep reading.

Using Fake Zubits
1. Harga

Perbedaan harga Zubits original dengan tiruannya sangat signifikan, Anda bisa mendapatkan Zubits fake dengan harga dibawah Rp100.000, saya bahkan mendapatkan tiruan Zubits hanya Rp35.000! Zubits original sendiri dijual dengan harga Rp280.000. Mulai tertarik browsing barang tiruannya? Chill out..lanjutkan dulu membacanya...

2. Look

Perbedaan harga yang sangat signifikan tentunya berdampak dengan penampilan dari produk. Anda bisa lihat perbedaan Zubits original dengan tiruannya pada gambar di bawah ini:
Perbedaan Zubits dengan produk tiruannya
The original had "zubits" written on that, the fake one doesn't

Produk tiruan tidak memiliki grafir "zubits", warna produk tiruan cenderung kusam dan ini perbedaan yang paling signifikan, produk tiruan menggunakan magnet bulat kecil dengan sistem selongsong. Bisa saja sewaktu-waktu magnetnya lepas dari housing dan dengan berjalannya waktu akan menimbulkan karat pada magnet yang berdampak mengurangi daya rekatnya. 

3. Performa

You get what you pay. Performa produk tiruan sangat buruk!! Even untuk pemakaian casual saja sangat mudah lepas!!! Jika anda membeli produk tiruan ini, anda akan rugi dua kali. Pertama..anda sudah mengeluarkan uang untuk membeli produk tidak berkualitas. Kedua, anda menggunakan produk yang berpotensi membahayakan anda sendiri. Bisa anda bayangkan saat tengah berjalan, sepatu anda tiba-tiba kendur? Its gonna turn to be nightmare in a few condition. Believe me.

The fake one, very weak magnet and easy to slip
Setelah merasakan sendiri bedanya Zubits dengan produk tiruannya..tidak pakai lama...langsung stripped out the fake from my shoes. It's a fucking dangerous things. Its snap and unsnapped anytime when i walk! Don't believe me? Go buy the fake ones and feel that shit.

Alright, that's the different between original and the fake. Sure the original come with a price, but you will get the practical and truly functional stuff. The fake one? Same like throw your money to trash bin with possibility get an extra damage in your life.

Wanna try Zubits? You can buy original Zubits online in:

1. (this is my account in

2. (official account zubits in

3. (zubits official website)

Last, i wanna say thank you to Zubits Indonesia, who gave me a chance to review this amazing stuff. :)

I hope we can work together again on the future.


Ride On!  

Sunday, 29 May 2016

Keep Rollin on The Trail/Road Pack

Ready to hit the trail? Don't forget to pack things below keep you rollin. can be your commuting mandatory pack too :D

Puncture repair kit

If you get a puncture, fitting a new tube will be quicker than mending the flat out on the trail. If your spare has a Presta valve it’ll fit both Presta and Schrader rim drillings. It’s good to carry a repair kit too, just in case you get a second flat.


You’ll need this if you puncture or want to adjust your tyre pressures mid ride.


Take the minimum you need for fixing common mechanicals. Multi-tool with chain tool, Bent spoke, Chain ‘master link’, Plier style multi-tool, Tyre levers, Spoke key, Zipties, Spare M5 and M6 bolts.

Rubber gloves

These will stop your riding gloves getting soaked or covered in grease during trailside repairs.

First aid kit

Make sure you at least have the basics so you can patch yourself or a friend up – plasters, bandages, antiseptic or disinfectant cream or wipes, and so on.

Energy gel or a banana

When you get tired, you’ll be grateful for these. Both provide an energy boost. Cereal bars and flapjacks are good options too.


Make sure it’s charged, and keep it safe and dry. Bring a few transparent plastic bag to make sure your belonging still dry in wetties condition.


Either in a hydration pack or in a bottle attached to your bike with a bottle cage.


If you’re not going to be back before dark, or will be cutting it fine, stick a set of basic get-me-home trail lights in your pack. Better safe than sorry.

Alright, pack your belonging and go gets some fun!

Source: Mountain Biking UK 6/2016 "Whats in the pack"

Ride On!

Thursday, 26 May 2016

Avoiding the Bonk

Maybe lot of cyclist had feel it. You feel the ride its so fuck'in hard to continue, feeling dizzy, frustration and maybe want to puke when see the bicycle :D. I 've experienced bonk once and after that learn to prevent it, and this is how to avoiding the bonk. check it out:

“Our muscles and brain rely on carbohydrate in the form of glucose from the bloodstream or stored glycogen for fuel,” Andrea Docherty, a sports dietitian in London, Ont., said. “When people bonk, they have run out of fuel in the tank, meaning their glycogen stores are empty and their blood sugar is low.”

 “Without fuel for the muscles, a cyclist may begin to feel weak, lethargic and unable to pedal,” she said. “Because the brain no longer has a steady supply of fuel, this can lead to feeling easily irritated, emotional, dizzy and confused. The ride may start to feel incredibly difficult to continue, or you may feel irritable and have difficulty focusing.”

A bonk is hard to bounce back from, so a cyclist’s best bet is to prevent one in the first place. “Glycogen is like gas in the tank of a car, and you want to have this full before entering a ride,” she said. “What you eat just before a workout won’t impact glycogen stores, but it can help to maintain your blood sugar levels.” Outside of that, Docherty recommends a higher carbohydrate diet to ensure you recover glycogen stores after and between your workouts.

“For rides longer than  60–90 minutes, fuelling with easily digestible carbohydrates will be required to maintain blood sugar levels and prevent glycogen depletion,” Docherty said. Sports drinks, which also provide much needed hydration, as well as gels, dried fruit and energy chews are all easy options for cyclists. They should be taken early and often, starting at about 15 to 20 minutes into a long ride.

Should you find yourself in the throes of a bonk, the best thing to do is just what my friend and saviour that day suggested – take in some quick-acting fuel. “If you feel yourself starting to bonk, you need to get your blood sugar levels up,” Docherty said.

“Consume simple sugars that are easily digested and that will quickly enter the bloodstream, such as a sports drink, gels or chews. Consuming solid food, like an energy bar, will take longer for your body to break down and not increase your blood sugar fast enough.”

Bonking is something that many new cyclists experience but does not need to be a part of learning to ride. :D

Source: Canadian Cycling June-July 2016 " Avoiding the Bonk"

Ride On!

Wednesday, 25 May 2016

Choose The Right Saddle (Update)

The importance of the saddle on any bicycle should never be underestimated. Get the wrong saddle, or even one that isn’t quite right for you and you’ll never feel comfortable and in the worst case scenario you simply won’t want to ride.

Choosing a saddle that’s just the right size isn’t straightforward. It can be a time-consuming and expensive process, but getting it right matters. The key thing to look for is comfort - the more comfortable you are, the longer (and faster) you'll be able to ride. Width is a key aspect; if a saddle is too narrow or too wide, it won’t be comfortable or conducive to optimum performance. The right width for you depends principally on two factors: your position on the bike, and your sit-bone dimensions.

Lotte Kraus is a physiotherapist and bike-fitter at gebioMized explains: “Typical issues caused by a too narrow saddle include a sore or painful lower back after long and/or hard rides or climbs. This is due to lack of stability on the saddle causing the hips to rock and the lower segments of the spine to rotate.”

Are there any obvious symptoms that indicate that a saddle is too wide? “A too wide or wrong-shaped saddle may cause friction in the pubic region and inner thigh. Many riders instinctively avoid that by positioning themselves too far forward, which can cause soreness, because the tip of the saddle is small and causes pressure-spots,” says Kraus. If you find yourself moving to the front tip of your saddle, width might be the issue.

There is no reliably accurate way to measure saddle-width requirement yourself, as the optimum width depends on your position on the bike. A lower handlebar means you place less weight on your sit bones and more on the pubic region, requiring a different saddle.

What to look for in a bike saddle

Ok, saddle width maybe its the most important things to consider but saddle comfort it's not just about width. Here's a few things can boost your comfort.

The saddle cover can be made from synthetic leather or real leather, and there’s many other materials manufacturers might use. The key thing is to make sure any seams, sticky bits or reinforcing panels don't chafe. Some add perforations and Kevlar edges to prevent wear and tear taking its toll. Time trial saddles often have a grippy material along the nose to stop the cyclist slipping back and forth.

Leather saddles have a single piece of leather that is tensioned on a metal frame, so it’s essentially suspended like a hammock, and provides plenty of give that can prove very comfortable on longer rides. They need more looking after than regular saddles, and sometimes need breaking in. The leather needs proofing, and you need to be careful in wet weather, as they don’t much like the rain.

The base of the saddle controls the basic shape and how springy it is. Several manufacturers produce different width or shaped shells for different physiques. The majority of saddles have a Nylon shell, but often there'll be some carbon reinforcement.

Grooves or cutouts

Saddles are available in a range of cut-outs  and relief channels that come in different sizes. The best way to see if you’ll benefit is to try one. Cut-outs and channels can relieve stress on soft tissues in your delicate areas. Some bike saddles feature relief channels. This is an alternative to a full cut-out and is very popular with some people. Is it bad to have a cut-out if you don’t need one? Many people who don’t need a cut-out comfortably ride saddles with cut-outs with no problems. However, some people find that cut-outs can increase pressure at the edges, or pinch delicate skin.

Traditionally, bicycle saddles have always been relatively triangular shaped, but recent years have seen an introduction of variations upon the theme, most notably T-shaped and pear-shaped saddles, but the basic concept remains the same and that is the broadest section of the saddle should support the rider’s ischial tuberosities, more commonly known as the sit bones. Generally speaking, the more stretched out your riding position and the faster you ride, the narrower the saddle you need. And the more upright your position and the slower you ride, the wider the saddle needs to be. Manufacturers are getting better at helping you to choose the right saddle. Most have their own system of narrowing the choice, either by deciding what type of cyclist you are (usually by your range of flexibility and your position on the bike) or using a fit system that measures the distance between your sit bones, to pair you with the saddle that best matches your anatomy.

A good saddle should support the sit bones, not the entire bum. It’s where your sit bones contact the saddle that is key, a saddle needs to provide adequate support in these two areas. That’s why many saddles are offered in different widths, reflecting the difference in people's anatomy. The nose of the saddle supports some of the cyclist’s weight too.

One thing to remember here is that just because you have a bigger bottom it doesn't necessarily follow that you have wider sit bones. Saddle shapes largely fall into several camps. Some are flat, some are rounded, some have scooped backs, some are narrow, others much wider. You can narrow down the choice by deciding what style of riding you do.

Generally, thinner saddles with minimal padding are more suited to racers with deep, stretched riding positions, down in the drops and crouched low over the handlebars. Such a position means you’re not sitting with all your weight on the saddle; you actually put very little load on the saddle when riding in such a position.

For touring cyclists saddles with a wider shape are favoured, as you don't adopt such an aggressive position when putting the miles in on tour as you do when racing. For long days in the saddle, and day after day, you need the highest level of comfort possible, and leather saddles are regularly the first choice. They're very durable too, and usually last years longer than saddles made from synthetic foam padding. For more leisurely riding where an upright position is adopted, more of your weight will be concentrated through the saddle. A wider saddle with more support and extra padding will be the preferred choice here.


Most saddles use some form of foam padding (Polyurethane foam is the most common padding material), but the amount of padding used and the density can vary a lot. A common misconception is that more padding equals a comfier saddle. If this were the case the people who spend the most time on bikes, Tour de France riders, would be using very padded saddles

The reality is that padding deforms and creates more contact, so on longer rides it can be less comfortable. Thick, soft padding may initially seem like a good idea to alleviate saddle discomfort, but often a squishy saddle will just compress down under the sit bones and push up in the middle, creating pressure spots in other areas. The crucial thing to remember is that while a soft, deep saddle might feel comfortable at first for a beginner, more contact and movement is likely to increase heat and discomfort the longer you're in the saddle.

Saddle padding doesn't last forever, particularly on performance saddles. After a while the padding isn't really doing any padding anymore because it has become permanently squashed by the millions of times your bottom has compressed it. The more performance-oriented a saddle and the less actual padding it has, the more time limited its lifespan. Many top end performance saddles have an expected lifespan of a couple of seasons if used the way they are intended.

The rails are the bars that the seatpost clamps onto under the saddle. Rails are one of the main areas that affect saddle price. Entry-level saddles have steel rails, these then move up to manganese, titanium and then carbon. As you move through the materials, they get lighter and more expensive. Carbon rails are the most expensive and lightest. Carbon and titanium are also slightly more forgiving than steel too, allowing for more comfort.

Last Thing Before You Pay

You must also consider potential compatibility issues. Many saddles are available with carbon fiber rails; due to the oval shape of the rails these saddles are not compatible with most seat posts that employ single bolt side clamp mechanisms. One other potential compatibility consideration is saddle profile. Some saddles have a very low profile, meaning the distance from the rail to the bottom of the shell is quite minimal, in some cases, 2cm or less. A low profile saddle may interfere with angle adjustment depending on the type of seat post you have. Some seat posts have more material protruding above the clamp mechanism than others that can come into contact with the bottom of the saddle. The greater the degree of negative fore to aft adjustment, the more likely you will run into problems.

Do: Monitor your stability. If your hips rock from side to side, your saddle may be too high or too narrow

Do: have a bike-fit, which helps determine whether you’re using the correct saddle for your overall position and pelvic width. 

Do: buy a gender-specific saddle. Women generally have wider sit bones

Don’t: tolerate discomfort. There is no need; the right saddle is available, it’s just a matter of finding it.

Don’t: pick a saddle based on aesthetics. The one that looks the fastest is unlikely to be the one that makes you go your fastest.

Don’t: underestimate the importance of comfort. It impacts on power output, as discomfort makes you move around in the saddle trying to get comfortable rather than focusing on pedalling efficiently.

Cycling Weekly May 2016 "How do i choose the right saddle?"

Ride On!

Tuesday, 24 May 2016

Clipless Pedals (MTB)

Clipless pedals are extremely efficient, providing a secure connection with the bike and zero power loss when climbing or sprinting. Mountain bike clipless pedals are all double sided, and use metal shoe cleats for strength and durability, although the binding mechanisms can be subtly different.

To clip-in, you simply place the cleat on the pedal and press down. The best systems make this process instant and smooth, so that it quickly becomes instinctive. All the mechanisms have built-in float. This is basically a bit of wiggleroom between the cleat and binding, so you can use more body English when riding through technical sections without your foot unclipping accidentally.

Disengaging should happen in a smooth and predictable manner. Inconsistent release is a big worry, particularly for first timers, as toppling over can hurt — even if it’s just your pride.



The small platform can give support, allow easier cleat location and act as a temporary base for those occasions when you havent quite clipped in.


Pedal float refers to the amount of free movement of your foot before the mechanismn releases. There are two types of float, lateral (side to side) and angular (twisting).


As with anything that spins on your bike, the peda needs goog seals to protect the bearings and bushings. Even with the best of selas, it is a good idea to pull the pedal apart now and force some grease through the body to repel water and dirt.

Release tension

On some clipless pedals, you can adjust the force needed to relase the cleat from the mechanism. If you are riding fast on hard or technical ground, increasing the tension can prevent unwanted releases, but you might prefer it set lower if you are new to clipless pedals or are breaking in a fresh set of cleats.


To allow your shoes to clip into mechanism, a pair of metal plates is included with every pedal. These attach to the bottom of the sole via two bolt interface. Cleats are pedal specific, so one system will not work with another. They also wear out so its worth replacing them every 12-18 month.

Source: What Mountain Bike Magazine 6/2016 "Clipless Pedals"

Ride On!

Monday, 23 May 2016

Maximize Your Hardtail

In Indonesia, hardtail MTB its a majority 1st bike for new cyclist who like to try commuting or bomb the MTB tracks. Its offer a cheap, fun and easy maintenance.  Here's a 5 tips to maximize your hardtail performance on the tracks:

Setup The Tires

Aim for 2.3in as a minimum width and aim for around 28psi front and 30psi rear — adjusting upwards by a couple of psi for heavier riders and down if you’re under 75kg. Tyre pressure is more critical on a hardtail than a full-suspension bike because damping is such a priority. Too hard and you’ll bounce all over the place, losing grip. Too soft and you’ll pinch puncture and the tyres will squirm when you corner hard. There is no hard and fast rule for tyre pressure, it will depend on where you ride, the tyres you run, how much you weigh and how aggressive you are. Experiment by gradually dropping the pressure.

Setup The Fork

As with tyres, it’s well worth finding the optimum air pressure to run in your fork. With no rear suspension, when the fork compresses on a hardtail, the whole frame pivots around the rear axle, radically steepening the geometry. This can feel dicey on steeper trails so add some lowspeed compression damping if you have it, experiment with different air pressures and try altering the oil height or the air volume with spacers. Reducing the air volume makes the spring rate more progressive, so you should find the fork supports the front end more when the trail steepens.

Clip On

Flat pedals are great, but not on a hardtail ,even the grippiest shoe/pedal combos are no help when you get an unexpected hit through the pedals and your foot takes off vertically! Clip in to improve your connection with the bike, it’ll give you total confidence that no matter what you’re rattling through, your feet will remain planted. (HINT: use a flat pedals if you bomb the track for the first time, after you familiar with it, go clipless)

Dropper seatpost

With no rear suspension, your legs have to absorb the bumps. Help them to get their full range of motion by dropping the saddle out of the way. Go for a dropper post with the most drop that you can get away with it.

Choose Your Cockpit

Stability and confidence are very welcome when riding without the compliance of suspension, so it’s even more important to pick a bar/stem combo that feels right to you. Short stems provide more direct steering as well as increasing stiffness. Wide bars make a huge difference as well, around 760mm is a good width to start.

(Ok, that statement above maybe right for technical trail. But with my experience in Jalur Jatiasih, UI Forest and Summarecon Bekasi XC Bike park, i prefer run my Giant ATX with mid stem (80mm) and narrow flatbar.)

Source: What Mountain Bike Magazine 6/2016 "Hardtail Rule"

Ride On!

Sunday, 22 May 2016

Keep Clean While You Work

When my cycling experience growth, i interested to try repaired and cleaned up my bike with my own. Started buying tools, read manuals and hand grab the hex key. Keep your tools, clothes and environment clean its a must since dirty tools, clothes and environment will turn your work messy, fail and get yourself a homework.

Below, its a few tips to make your work clean. Yes, it takes time..but that's a professional mechanics do.

1. Wear gloves, and pull fresh ones on frequently. Gloves are the simplest way to keep your hands clean, and a fresh pair is the best way to have contaminant-free for handling critical components.

2. Wearing an apron protects your clothes and offers useful stowage for often-used tools. When the job done, all you have to do is remove the apron and you’re clothes still clean.

3. Eliminate messy containers. The grease tub, oil bottles, and aerosol cans are the enemies here. Keep your grease tub and other containers clean and closed, and use a drain pan with a lid.

4. Wipe down your tools before you put them away. A clean rag will do the trick, but a rag misted with isopropyl alcohol will get those tools squeaky clean and residue free.

5. Sweep! Sweeping at the end of the day during cleanup is a given, but sweep before you start too. Dust can’t rise off a clean floor, and finding dropped objects is easier when there’s no clutter underfoot.

6. Paper towels and rags are like gauze in an operating room. Keep lots of the stuff handy. More absorbent materials like kitty litter help prevent spills from becoming much bigger messes.

Now, grab a towel and wash your body. After that, rewards yourself with sip of coffee or slice of cake. :D

Souce: Motorcyclist magazine, July 2016 "Keep Clean While You Work"

Ride On!

Thursday, 19 May 2016

MTB Setup Tips

So you wanna hits the trail now? Or...just bored rode in the city? Grab your MTB and set the schedule to hit the trail. Before you go, here's a few tips to setup your MTB:

Dropper Seatpost

Being able to drop or raise your saddle with the flick of a switch means you can adapt quickly to changes in terrain and gradient, and make the most of every trail situation. The cost may seem high, but a dropper will transform your riding.

Suspension Setup

Get kitted up in your riding gear before fiddling with any settings – weight added by your pack and clothing can have a big effect. Manmade trail centre tracks tend to be faster and grippier than more natural trails so you can run your suspension firmer – try 20 to 30 per cent sag on your rear shock and 15 to 20 per cent on your fork.

Short Stem

Fitting a shorter stem will give your bike a snappier, more responsive feel. It’ll also make it easier to lift the front wheel over obstacles and to shift your weight further back on the bike. A stem around 50mm in length is normally perfect, but going as short as 35mm will help for aggressive downhill riding.

Going Wide

Wide bars give you more control. For a noticeable leverage advantage, go for one that’s at least 740mm wide. If you don’t like how it feels you can always cut it down. (BTW, i prefer narrow bar for my Giant ATX :D)

Choose Tyres

Going tubeless saves weight and spells the end of pinch flats, but harder riders may find themselves ‘burping’ air. Trail centre tracks tend to be smoother than natural trails, with fewer harsh rocks and roots, so thinner, more XC orientated tyres won’t feel out of their depth. You can also consider using something with a low-profile tread – you won’t need to penetrate through mud to find grip, but will benefit from a faster rolling tyre.

Source: Mountain Biking UK 6/2016 "Bike Setup Tips"

Ride On!

Wednesday, 18 May 2016

Suspension Setup Part 4: Setting Compression, Balancing Front and Rear Suspension

Alright, here we are, in the last article from Suspension Setup article series. After knowing the terminology, how to setting SAG and rebound now its time to know how to setting compression and balancing your front and rear suspension. 


Sag and rebound damping setup both have a very narrow range of what’s correct for a given bike and rider, but compression damping is a little more dependent upon terrain, riding style and rider preference.

EXPERIMENT: In most of these cases, this adjustment comes in the form of a multi-position arrangement with positions for descending, general trail riding and climbing. If you have this type of setup, the best thing you can do is to experiment with all the settings and decide what settings make the most sense for your terrain and riding style.

BRACKET: If your fork or shock offers a multitude of low-speed compression damping settings, experiment by bracketing like you did with the rebound adjustment. Turn to the minimum setting and test by cycling the suspension slowly through its travel. Then turn to the maximum setting and retest. Then go to the middle and bracket from there.

Increasing low-speed compression damping generally provides a firmer platform for resisting rider-induced suspension motion such as pedal bob and brake dive but will also help to support the bike in berm corners and g-outs. However, overdoing the low-speed compression damping may decrease small bump compliance, resulting in a harsher ride. If your fork and shock offer high-speed compression damping adjustment, start at the factory recommended setting and bracket out from that starting point.


With your suspension adjusted to a good baseline, it’s time to make sure it’s balanced front and rear.

TEST: Find a smooth, level surface. If you have three-position compression adjustments, select the open or descend setting. While cruising around in the neutral position, cycle the suspension by weighting the pedals heavily and the handlebars lightly. Mimic the pressure you’d apply to pump a roller. Here you’re looking to ensure the suspension compresses and rebounds harmoniously. Both the front and rear suspension should compress similarly and rebound at the same rate.

ADJUST: If the front and rear suspension are rebounding at different rates, adjust in a bracketed fashion until both are rebounding at the same rate. However, don’t lose sight of setting rebound as quickly as possible without any residual motion.

Source: Dirt Rag Magazine 191/2016 "Dirt Rag Guide Suspension Setup"

Ride On!

Tuesday, 17 May 2016

Suspension Setup Part 3: Setting Rebound Damping

So here we are...suspension setup part 3. After talk about SAG in previous article, now its time talking about setting rebound. Check it out.


Rebound damping should always be adjusted after the proper air pressure and resulting sag have been established because the amount of damping necessary is contingent on air pressure in the system.

TEST: Again, hop on the bike with a friend holding you up or balance against a wall. Bounce your butt up and down on the seat to test the rear suspension. To test the fork, stand on the ground and quickly compress the fork through as much travel as you’re able. Since you’re currently at the minimum rebound setting (per previous instructions), you should notice a very quick rebound with some residual motion from the rear shock and a very quick return to top-out from the fork.

ADJUST: Now, carefully count the total number of settings as you turn the rebound adjustment all the way to the slowest or maximum rebound damping setting and note the total number of positions.

TEST: Hop back on the bike and test. You should notice rebound that is very slow, maybe taking a couple of seconds to return to static sag, or not even fully returning. You’ve now experienced the full range of rebound adjustment from too fast to too slow.

ADJUST: Next, adjust the rebound damping to the middle of the range and repeat testing

TEST: You’re looking for the suspension to return to the static sag point quickly, but without any residual motion in the suspension or noticeable top-out.

BRACKET: Here’s where the total number of positions comes into play. Take the total number of positions and divide by four to find your bracketing number. So, eight positions yields a bracketing number of two. Thirty two positions yields a bracketing number of eight.

FINE TUNE: If this middle setting feels too slow, decrease damping by the number of clicks equal to your bracketing number and retest. If the middle setting feels too fast, increase damping by the bracketing number and retest.

REPEAT: Repeat the above process until you’ve nailed down one setting that feels best. You may deviate slightly from this setting once out on the trail, but you should be very close to optimal.

Source: Dirt Rag Magazine 191/2016 "Dirt Rag Guide Suspension Setup"

Ride On!

Monday, 16 May 2016

Suspension Setup Part 2: Setting SAG

Hallo, we meet again in "Suspension Setup" serial article. After know and understand the terminology, now we start to set up the suspension. Below, we will learn how to setting SAG from you bike and suspension. Check it out.


This is the starting point and building block for proper setup. Sag is the amount of available suspension travel utilized when you’re sitting or standing on the bike ready to ride.

Before setting sag, turn the rebound and compression damping adjustments to their minimum setting. This ensures your sag measurements aren’t influenced by damping settings. Also, be sure you’re wearing all your riding gear and are carrying all the water, tools and accessories you normally ride with.

Shock: 25 to 30 percent sag with the rider seated and the seat in the full-up position.

ADJUST: If you have air pressure guidelines from the frame manufacturer, use those recommendations as a starting point. If not, use your body weight as the starting pressure.

TEST: Have a friend hold you and your bike up by the handlebar, or position the bike beside a wall where you’re able to hold yourself up by the elbow. From a standing position, bounce your butt down aggressively on the saddle and remain seated. Gently reach down and slide the travel indicator o-ring up to the bottom of the dust wiper. Gingerly slide forward off the seat and put your feet on the ground, being sure not to compress the suspension as you dismount. If you compress the suspension at all, repeat from the beginning.

MEASURE: Measure sag and adjust air pressure accordingly. If you have too much sag, add air. If you have too little sag, remove air. Repeat this process until you achieve the desired sag amount.

Fork: 15 to 20 percent fork sag when standing in the ready position Repeat the process above, with one exception. Instead of being seated, stand in a natural ready position with most of your weight on the pedals, but the handlebar slightly weighted. Cycle the fork a few times to be sure you’ve achieved static sag, then slide the o-ring down onto the dust wiper.

MEASURE: Check sag.

ADJUST: If required, air up or down until the desired sag has been achieved.

If your fork has independently adjustable positive and negative air chambers, be sure to remove all of the air from the negative chamber prior to setting sag. To do so, turn the bike upside down, and release air from the negative chamber. Be sure to remove the wheel or shield the disc rotor from the trace amount of oil expelled in the process. Once ideal sag is achieved, match the pressure of the positive chamber in the negative chamber. Recheck sag and adjust both chambers equally if necessary.

Source Dirt Rag Magazine 191/2016 "Dirt Rag Guide Suspension Setup"

Ride On!

Sunday, 15 May 2016

Suspension Setup Part 1: Terminology

Setting a bicycle suspension sometimes can turn yourself crazy, it has a lot of terminology and sometimes we doesn't know what the hell that means right? After you know all the terminology, now you can scratch your head to find how to setup your suspension.

Below, its a nice and helpful article from Dirt Rag Magazines about suspension setup. Since the topic is a little complicated, i will break the article in 4 parts. Enough the chit chat, here the part 1, Terminology.

Today’s suspension products offer incredible performance, but that performance is only as good as the quality of the suspension’s setup. With this guide we’ll help you understand how to achieve proper baseline setup to maximize your bike’s performance.

First, let’s demystify suspension systems and terminology. Conceptually, suspension is comprised of two systems: a spring mechanism and the damper unit.


On mountain bikes, springs are found in two forms: air and coil. Air springs consist of a pressurized chamber that is compressed as the suspension moves throughout its travel, called the positive spring. While the positive air spring works to extend the fork or shock, the negative spring works to compress the suspension.

The compressive force of the negative spring helps to overcome seal friction that’s required to maintain air pressure. Coil springs provide the same basic function as the positive air spring. The coil is compressed as the suspension travels through its stroke.


The term “spring rate” refers to the load required to compress the spring a given distance, most often pounds per inch in the United States. The rate of the spring rate ramp-up is dictated by the volume of air within the air spring. The smaller the air volume, the more progressive the curve. As air volume increases, the spring rate becomes less progressive.


Damper units control the suspension’s movement through the dissipation of energy via friction and resulting heat on both the compression and rebound stroke. In the cycling industry, nearly all of these systems are hydraulic.


Compression damping helps to control the rate of the suspension’s movement under compression. This is where “shaft speed” comes into play. Shaft speed refers to the rate at which the fork or shock is compressing or rebounding.

High shaft speeds occur from large impacts and bumps where the fork or shock are quickly cycled deep into the stroke. Increasing high-speed compression damping helps dissipate the energy of an impact, but too much damping will feel harsh. Decreasing high-speed damping softens the damper’s resistance, but too little damping can allow bottom-out.

Low shaft speeds are more often the result of pedaling forces, rider weight transfer, brake dive and cornering forces. In this instance, the fork or shock cycles more slowly and not as far into the travel. Increasing low-speed damping will counteract these inputs, but too much damping can lead to a harsher ride.


The energy required to compress a spring is stored in the spring and released upon rebound. Like compression damping, rebound damping runs the gamut from low-speed to high-speed, and suspension systems are tasked with seamlessly managing all of these motions.

Low-speed rebound damping controls the return stroke of smaller, slower compressions, such as rider- or pedal-induced motions. High speed rebound damping controls the return stroke after larger, faster compressions, such as landing a drop to flat.

If rebound damping is set too slowly, the suspension doesn’t have enough time to recover over a series of successive bumps. This causes the suspension to pack up in its travel, making the ride feel harsh since the suspension does not have time to rebound before the next bump. If rebound damping is set too fast, energy stored in the spring is not sufficiently controlled, causing the bike to buck on the return stroke.

Source: Dirt Rag Magazine 191/2016 "Dirt Rag Guide Suspension Setup"

Ride On!

Friday, 13 May 2016

Review: AP Boots All Bike

Actually, i have this shoe since a 4-5 month ago. I recently used this shoes for commuting, by motorcycle or bicycle. So i think this is the right time to write down the review.

AP Boots in the beginning was launch a rubber boots...had a few type, for work or motorcycling, and ia a last year AP Boots launch AP Boots All Bike. It had a different feature compared with AP boots family.

1st, its not a boot, 2nd, its not waterproof 

So what the hell i can use this shoe? 

From my experience, this shoe had a great grip and good fit. My foot still grab the pedal, even in the heavy rain.

Ventilation was good, its helps prevent sweat in my foot in the middle of the day. How about in wet condition? Frankly, i think this shoe had one less features, a hole in the sole! Nobody likes a wet foot right? Water is pooling inside, and you must take off your shoe to drain the water. I had a plan to drill some hole in the sole, so water can out freely. 

Conclusion? With the decent price around Rp35.000, good fit and grippy sole, AP Boots All bike its one of cheap and great shoe you can buy. One tips for you who interested to buy after read this article, buy 1 size down from your regular shoe.

Ride On!

Thursday, 12 May 2016

Dope Legally in Cycling

Doping is a interesting topics...basicly a term "how to cheat legally" its one of a things in my (maybe ours) mind who always rollin :D.

Today, Mr. A said this is a legal and healthy dope when tomorrow Mr. B said that dope had a horrible side effect and must be banned forever.

Below, is an experience from Peter Stuart, who try to take legal dope in his body to see the effect in his cycling performance. Check it out.

In cycling, painkiller tramadol has been one of the most commonly discussed, apparently used by cyclist for pain reduction and performance gains. Stimulants such as nicotine and caffeine area a constant focus of concern, and both are now on the WADA monitored substance lists.

“Tramadol is an opiate like morphene and ketamine and those sorts of drugs. It is weaker but has the psychotropic side effects of those durgs: dizziness, light headedness, concentration and it affects your reaction times. Theres no evidence to show that it makes you go faster” “The stimulants are quite a nasty group, even caffeine in high doses can be quite toxic, potentially setting off heart arrhythmias”.  Dr Jarrad van Zuydam, doctor for Team Dimension Data.

A more interesting group of supplements are those that fall into the ergogenic class and are aimed purely at enhancing performance. “Creatine, which works on your phosphocreatine pathway to increase strength, power and the regeneration of that explosive power. Then you’ve got beta-alanin which buffers lactate production. So they may increase your performance through greater regeneration og greater power. Both are naturally occurring in food, but in small quantities.” Matt Furber, senior scientist at GSK Human Performance Lab. Other ergogenic supplements include HMB, an amino acid that prevents muscle protein breakdown, and L-Carnitine, which reduce fatigue and helps convert fats into energy.

Bicarbonate of soda is one of those traditional ones. Its been used by cyclist for a long time. They use it for short efforts but increasingly the research is showing that’s its not all that beneficial. It also has some gastrointestinal side effects like diarrhea, vomiting and things like that.

The Programs

I follow a schedule suggested by Katushas Rob Child that’s designed to load certain elements such as creatine but build up more slowly with others such as beta-alanine. My programme includes 4 beta-alanine tablets, 20g of creatine in four doses (reducing to 5g after the loading period), 3 HMB tablets, 6g of magnesium and L-carnitine tablet.

From the outset, there are effects both good and bad. Beta-alanine is porbably most noticeable. It creates a tingling in the skin. The creatine kicks in quickly. Normally my weight is unwaveringly stable, but over my six weeks of creatine I put on half a kilo. 

With my daily dose of magnesium I feel like I have more energy, more concentration and less fatigue, while the effects of beta-alanine and HMB are too subtle to tell. But I do think my speed of recovery is constantly increasing. The bicarbonate of soda, mean awhile is truly foul. I can only compare it to drinking brine from a fish tank, with the scaly, fishy bits included.

The Result

During the course of the programme, I noticed only the subtlest of differences during my regular rides. I was a little less fatigued after long distances. My short sprints were ever so slightly sharper. My long threshold climbing efforts were much the same, my legs felt a little more powerful but also a little heavier. They were also quick to fatigue but quick to recover.

From my own experiences, anecdotes from other riders and scientific journals, I believe beta-alanine is possibly cyclings best legal performance enhancer and ill continue to use it. Magnesium too will stay in my armoury simply because I feel better taking it than not.

Source: Cyclist magazine 6/2016 "Can i Dope Legally?"

Ride on!

Wednesday, 11 May 2016

Dropbars and Stem

The handlebar is one of just three contact areas with the bike, along with the saddle and pedals, so it has a massive effect on fit, control and comfort. The cockpit is also one of the areas that companies often scrimp on when decking out new bikes, making it an ideal upgrade if you’re looking to reduce weight, boost performance or both. When buying a new cockpit, getting the handlebar width and stem length right is crucial – but that’s only the basic part of the equation. 

You also have to consider the angle of the stem if you want to get your bar higher for a less aggressive riding position, for example – especially if you’re limited by the length of steerer tube. Bars also differ in shape, offering varying amounts of reach and drop. Reach is measured from the centre-line of the bar to the front of the drops, and serves as a guide when working out how far away the hoods of your brake levers are going to be. Drop is usually measured from the centre-line at the top the bar to the centre-line at the end of the drop.

The join between bar and stem needs to be of a good enough tolerance that not too much clamping force is required to keep the bar secure. This is especially true of lighter-weight carbon composite bars, where overtightening can damage the bar and result in premature catastrophic failure. Use a torque wrench.

It used to be just the shape of the drop section of the bar that you had to take into account, but more and more bars are getting shaped ‘tops’ and also bends to them – or more accurately a sweep, where the bar projects at an angle other than a right angle from the stem. This is where looking at them and holding in a bike shop comes into play.

Good quality fasteners are essential. Both the threads on the stem and the bolts need to be as good as they can be, and the bolts must have a washer fitted under them. This stops galling in the case of titanium bolts, and prevents damage to carbon composites due to fretting when tightening. No stem bolt should ever be without a washer.

The top of the bar is usually reserved for putting your hands on during long dragging climbs when you need to sit up and open your chest up for a bit of extra oxygen. The tops can also host lights, computers, GPS units, video cameras and the like.

The first bend in the bar is actually two bends, where the bar begins to bend forwards and downwards. This is crucial both for comfort and compatibility with brake lever hood designs. Too early and too steep a downward bend and the brake lever hood will stick up on the top edge, leaving a ridge that digs into your palm.

Source: Cycling Plus magazine 6/2016 "Bars and Stems"

Ride On!